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Fold types For Clothing Labels - Updated in 2022

By Michael Lau   Ι  2021-12-05

Fold types For Clothing Labels-banner

When designing a label for your product, consider the fold type you want to use and which shape fits best. The label with the right fold can make or break an otherwise good design. You may not be familiar with the various fold types, but that’s okay because each type has a specific purpose. Once you know what they do and then everything thing will become clear.

So how do you select a folding type? We need to focus on the answer to: “What needs to be on the label?” and “Where will the label be placed?” We will introduce you to 7 different folding types so that you can choose the correct folding type for your needs:

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Hi, I’m the author of this post and have been in wholesale labels and hangtags for over 17 years. If you want to know anything about our products or require help please feel free to ask me at any time!

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End Fold Labels

This label is usually folded on two ends(left&right, or top& bottom ends). These folded edges are soft. It is suitable to display your brand name, slogan, website information, and so on. The end fold labels are a favorite of high-end brands and designs, with a clean look and soft touch found everywhere in popular fashion brands. We typically see end-fold labels on t-shirts.

End fold label
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Tips: The sewing allowance is usually 6-7MM. but you can also customize the seam allowance size. If the seam length exceeds 10MM, it needs to be folded manually, increasing the unit price and production time, so a greater budget and procurement time are required.

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Straight Cut Labels/ No fold Labels

Straight cut labels are the only “fold” that does not need to fold. It can be stitched flat on clothes so that the entire label fits the clothes without a gap.

In addition to sewing all four edges, straight cut labels can also have different types of materials on the back to achieve different functions. For example, hot-melt adhesive (iron-on backing), double-sided tape (stick & peel backing), non-woven fabric, or Velcro can be added to attach your garment label to the desired items easily. The different backings allow the label to be placed on products that are difficult to stitch, such as furniture, bags, slippers, etc.

straight-cut label
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In addition, we can often see straight cut labels on hats, shoe tongues, back collar patches of coats, and the outside of trousers. Combined with zig-Zag stitches, your brand name can be displayed.

However, because the process of woven labels determines if two sides are eager, there will be some unevenness on the two sides of eagerness. If the label touches the skin, we do not recommend using a straight cut woven label, because it could irritate the consumer’s skin.

TIPS: The cotton yarns will fray on both cutting sides, therefore, we do not recommend using this fold type for cotton labels, unless you use zig-zag stitches to sew around the label to avoid fraying.

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Loop Fold Label

loop-fold label
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The loop fold label is an easy way to make your garment tags stand out. The name suggests that you simply fold the label in half, then sew down both ends into a neck seam or inside, it is similar to the centerfold label, but there is no crease on the loop fold label, meaning we ship it without folding like our no fold garment tags. These clothing labels are usually sewn on the edge of thicker products as hem tags.

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Mitre Fold Labels/Hanger Loop Label

mitre-fold label
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This kind of label is usually used in shirts and pants. Both ends of the label need to fold up 45 degrees to form a hook, and the folded part (sewing allowance) will sew into the seam. A mitre fold label is ideal for soft clothes and accessories that need to hang.

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Center fold Labels

center-fold label
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The center fold label is folded in half of the label. Therefore, half-folding is more suitable for designs that want to add different content to one label. For example, the front displays the brand name, logo, and size, and the back contains slogans, origin, fabric content, or washing instructions.
They are usually used in the following two situations:

1)  Sewn into the side seam or neck seam and usually used as care labels and size labels to sew on the inside of the clothes.

Suppose the garment is intimate apparel, such as t-shirts or shirts. In that case, it is advised to use cotton printed or satin label instead of a woven label because cotton and satin materials are softer and will not irritate the skin.

Woven labels are more suitable for other garments such as coats, sweaters, and pants.

If it is children’s clothing, the center fold label will ideally be stitched on the outer side seam.

If you want to sew a center fold label at the back neck seam or side seam inside on children’s garments, we highly recommend using cotton labels.

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2) Displaying the brand, usually as a hem tag, sewn on the jacket’s hem, the cuff’s hem, the hat’s lower edge, and the trousers’ front pocket. However, due to the limitations of the workmanship, the edges of the center fold label are not smooth, so we usually recommend the Manhattan fold label.

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TIPS: Refer to the bottom of this article for more tips on the centerfold label.

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Manhattan Fold Label

This folding type is similar to the center fold labels. After folding in the middle, the edge of the front side is folded again, and the reverse side is the same as the center fold. Therefore, the folded edge is smooth when we look at the garment label from the front. It is most common on the cuffs and hem of garments. If you want to display the brand, then the Manhattan fold label is most suitable. When placing an order with your label supplier, you should clarify what you need, otherwise, they will default to the center fold option.

Manhattan Fold Label
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Book Cover Fold Label

It combined centerfold and ends fold so that it will be folded in the middle and both ends, with this folding type, both ends are smooth, clean, and soft. It is the best choice for displaying your logo on the hem of the apparel, the cuffs, the lower edge of the hat, and the shoe’s tongue. When designing a book cover fold label, you need to consider the seam allowance because different products have slightly different seam allowance requirements. It is usually 3MM (1/8”). It is best to communicate with your manufacturer, tell them what type of folding method your label is, and ask how much sewing allowance you need.

book-cover-fold label
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TIPS: If the label size is less than 28MM, then we need to fold labels manually, which will increase the cost of the label and cause a longer production time.

More tips when designing Mid-fold Labels (centerfold labels, manhattan fold labels, and book cover fold labels)

Tip 1. Confirm the position of the label.

A. Sewn into the seam.

When the folded labels are sewn into the seam, there are two options for the seam allowance; one of them is plain fabric which is the structure and appearance of the sewing area are different from than label’s body. The other is full damask, meaning the structure and appearance are the same on one garment tag. We do not recommend doing plain fabric because whether it is a hand-sewn or a machine-sewn label, they can not avoid the situation of misalignment if the seam position is accidentally exposed; this will affect the customer’s first impression and sales of the product. The following photo and video will help you understand this point better.

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B. Sewn on the outside of merchandise.

When the midfold labels are stitched on the outside of the merchandise, like on cuffs or hems, the whole label is completely exposed, the centerfold label is NOT the ideal label, manhattan fold labels or book cover fold labels will be the best choice because the edges of the garment labels are heat cut, so it will inevitably be some roughness, while the manhattan fold labels or book cover fold labels has the smooth and soft edges at folded sides. 

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Tip 2. Confirm the label design.

Option A: Most customers want the logo or letterings to be centered under the seam line.

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Option B: Some clients want the design to be centered over the entire tag.

If you would like your label manufacturer to help you create the artwork from scratch, you need to advise your supplier which one you prefer initially.

Tip 3: Tips about the cutting line:

If the fabric tag is folded in half and stitched on the outside, tell your label maker to put the cut line of the woven labels on the backside; If they are printed labels, tell them not to show the positioning line.

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Each folding method has unique characteristics, and there is no “bad” or “good.” To consider which folding option is most suitable for your custom logo, it needs to compare with different designs, sewing positions, your products, and many other factors. In addition, with varying methods of sewing and thread colors to make your brand more prominent, such as zig-zag stitching, corner stitching, and contrast stitching.

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